-#1 Phillips, #2 Phillips, straight slot screwdriver
-Small punch or brad nail-set,
-Hammer & pair of pliers
-New single edge razor blades,
-10 mm 1/4" drive socket
-10 mm box or open end wrench
-Sharp pair of heavy duty scissors
-1/4" electric drill with 1/8" drill bit
-Pop rivet tool
-4 ea. 1/ 4" pop rivets (should come with top)
-2 ea. 3/ 8 to 1/ 2" pop rivets
-Lacquer thinner & rags
-Warm well lit work area with a table
-3M FAST TACK trim cement Part # 08031


Before you start the soft top installation. Take new top out of the carton and unfold it and let it sit in a warm room for a day or two, to let the box folds in the top fabric relax.

1. Lower both door windows.
2. With 10 mm wrench, disconnect negative battery terminal to keep battery from discharging.
3. Stow top in boot and use #2 Phillips to remove one screw on each side from the front corner of the front rubber seal. There's a small access hole.
4. Carefully remove all three rubber seals from both sides with the top half up.
5. Use # 1 Philips to remove 2 screws from R & L cup shaped corner pieces.
6. Remove both corner pieces.
7. Use # 1 Philips to remove 9 or 10 screws along front metal strip.
8. Remove front metal strip.
9. Peel foam tape back 4" to expose metal above wing windows. The metal holds the side hard rubber seal at the front. You should see two rivets on each side.
10. Use 1/8" drill to drill top off rivets. You may need to tilt drill if rivet spins.

11. Drill the rivets that hold the fabric tabs in the side supports about over the lock button.
12. Remove plastic retainers over all three roof bows.
13. With top half open, peel fabric off front of frame.
14. Peel fabric off the roof bows.
15. With top half to 2/3 open use pliers to slip cable loop off grove of small post about 6" back on outside of frame on each side.
16. Peel fabric off vertical support at back of windows.
17. Pat yourself on the back you are doing fine!
18. There is a 5/8" hole at the bottom of vertical support at the back of the door window openings that allows access to nuts (not the ones holding the wrench) which goes through the plastic side piece of the top. Use 10 mm 1/4 drive (small) socket or nut driver to remove nut. Note: this end has two 90 degree bends that should position the threaded end above and out to slip between two flat surfaces of holder.
19. At this point the top can be fully removed if you want.
20. On the front couple of inches of both ends of the back metal piece that holds the top down in back there is a fabric tab that covers access to a pin on either end that secures the other end of the cable.

21. Peel the tabs back and use small punch to carefully drive the pins from the inside to the outside. Don't hit them hard but make sure they are coming out. It's a little tricky to get lined up. You don't need to drive pins all the way out, just enough to free the quarter cable.
22. Inspect the way the top rolls around and under the metal piece and the plastic goes into the groove. Look at the new top and the plastic. Orient yourself to how it rolls and fits into the groove. Note the way the plastic is formed. It will slide into the groove and expand to hold itself in place like a spear or arrow point.
23. Carefully remove old top's plastic from groove with straight slot screw driver.
24. That's it you are doing fine.
25. Put paper or tarp under frame to catch debris and use (caution highly flammable) lacquer thinner and a towel carefully to remove all old glue from front, verticals and bows.
26. Make sure new top is properly oriented or on car's top frame.
27. Do not remove strings at inside top of window. These are used to pull the other cable through.
28. Center plastic strip in back with metal back piece. Work the plastic strip into the groove. Don't do the two plastic tabs yet. Work all the way across a couple of times to help shape the top around and under the metal. The back seam should hang down a little in back to rest against the painted surface when top up.
29. Run the side cables through the plastic side pieces and into the hole in the back metal piece. Line up the holes for the pins with a small nail, being careful not to poke the top. Make sure that threaded end is properly oriented. Carefully drive the pins in from the outside with a hammer.
30. Form top over frame, work the back a little more and get the two plastic tabs on each end into the groove.

31. Time for a breather.
32. Frame should be all the way up but not latched and back deck latched in place. Get threaded ends of side cables through their respective holders properly oriented between flat surfaces and put the nuts on to about where they were.
33. Secure the back and sides of the top in the back deck and pull it forward to see how it's looking and pat yourself on the back.
34. Pull the cables through the sides above the window openings with the strings.
35. Open the back deck.
36. With the top half open or better secure the cable loops on the groove in the pegs on side frames.
37. Now another breather.
38. Stretching and gluing the top is fun! I'm not sure what the trick is to getting it the first time but to re-stretch it will only take an hour on down the line.
39. You will need to cut the side almost to the front a little. A half inch in front of the front most heat seal where it comes to a pointed end at the front needs a little cut to within 3/8" of the edge on the inside to create a flap to roll under that metal piece and hard rubber that you will pop rivet into place.
40. Remember Only about three minutes drying time on the Fast Tack, so plan your the next steps.

41. Open back deck again and open top.
42. Apply Fast Tack to inside flat surface only as far as will be covered by that metal strip. Allow to dry about 3 minutes.
43. Close the top against a wooden 2x4 across the windshield
44. Close the back deck and secure the back and sides of the top.
45. Stretch the top forward and to the sides at the front corners with 2x4 still in place Don't pull it drum tight as it should pull into place when you remove the 2X4. Careful you do not tear where you cut with scissors.
46. Roll the soft top fabric around and under against the adhesive. It should hold fast. Work it a couple of times now to insure adhesion.
47. Put Fast Tack on the verticals and wait about 3 minutes. Pull the top forward and down as well as you can. Press the fabric against the flat vertical surface with the hole in it for nut access. Run your fingers up and down to secure it. This glue is very forgiving. If it doesn't look good, peel the fabric off, apply more glue and press on again.
48. Do not trim excess in front
49. Remember that latch handles break so help the top down and forward a little with the frame before putting too much stress on the latch handles. Latch top down on LH & RH sides.
50. Check for tightness of fit. Re-glue if necessary, no need to clean new glue off.

51. Open top half way and put on vertical rubber seal.
52. Open top and put hardware on front, Reapply black foam tape and then two rubber seals above each window.
53. Latch top down and leave it for at least 3 days to stabilize.
54. Apply fast tack carefully to front two bows and pull fabric hold downs down around the front and under and secure. Don't do the back one yet, it may not need adhesive.
55. After a couple of days, the soft top may need another stretch. Trim excess top material with new razor blade along metal strip inside front.

Congratulations! You have just saved yourself $200 - $300 in labor costs.

Thanks for visiting, and continue to look to the Roo-Sport web site to provide relative information dedicated to the preservation, care, history and enjoyment of the Mercury Capri 'Aussie' convertible.


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